Conforming. What is that, exactly? Often, society sets an unspoken standard for us — a template we should follow when it comes to our behavior or appearance. For those who seek to defy that template, fashion becomes the natural outlet to do so. Alternative or “alt” subcultures entirely embody that notion, using fashion as a powerful statement of individuality.
“Alternative” is a broad umbrella term that, in this context, is generally used to define fashion and culture that stands apart from mainstream, commercial fashion. Some alternative fashion styles (e.g. goths), stemming from their respective subcultures, are more artistic and eye-catching. Others (e.g. the punk movement) are motivated by anti-fashion and societal statements focusing on utilitarianism.
While these subcultures have historically been rather underground and specific to the people who practice them, their mainstream influence — from high fashion to the entertainment world, has been felt as well.
Origins of Alt Fashion
Alternative fashion took its first steps around the mid-20th century, starting with the Beatniks and rockers in the 50s and the hippies and mods of the 60s. These subcultures set the fashion foundations for styles in the decades to come — dark colors, jeans, leather jackets, flowing fabrics, tie-dye, mini skirts, you name it. However, the most significant time in alternative history came in the form of the punk movement in the 1970s.
The punk movement set a basis for other styles to emerge. The goths, for example, felt the punk movement was far too aggressive and instead took a more elegant approach, inspired by vampirism and bands like Bauhaus, the Cure and Siouxsie and the Banshees. Taking a similar tone of musical inspiration, the grunge style came from the Seattle music scene and bands like Nirvana. At the same time, the rapidly growing rave scene gave birth to cyber fashion.
Fashion Characteristics
All of the subcultures mentioned above had their own staple and signature pieces. However, most had the overarching themes of dark colors, silver metallic surfaces and jewelry, layered fabrics and fishnets, etc.
The punks specifically would go on to establish significant influences in fashion to come. In fact, the first mentions of “sustainable fashion” can be traced back to the punk movement. They embraced simplicity — handmade clothing, often from scraps and reused fabrics, torn clothing, safety pins and bold prints were adopted to directly challenge the more polished mainstream looks.
While a lot of alternative styles are similar, grouping them together under the same umbrella is not necessarily always accurate. The goths, for example, only really had the jewelry and the color of their clothes in common with the punks. Traditional goth fashion takes heavy inspiration from Victorian styles, with lace and velvet forming dramatic, dark and mysterious silhouettes.
Influence on High Fashion
Most notably, Vivienne Westwood brought punk fashion to the mainstream. She’s considered an icon of the subculture, with her origins in fashion coming from a place of dealing with the post-war world and making statements in fashion. She was the stylist of what is arguably the most famous punk band to exist to this day — the Sex Pistols.
Her debut in the haute couture world as a luxury brand was characterized by playing with and upsetting tradition, which caught the attention of the media and the fashion world.
Modern Alternative Fashion
Alternative fashion has not died down even in the modern day, despite its origins being in the 1950s. Most people who lived on the internet during 2020’s quarantine period will remember the “e-kid” boom, from the split hair dye to holed belts and bat-winged eyeliner, or even the 2010’s “Tumblr girl” who wore sheer black tights and plaid skirts with pastel hair. The recent Netflix hit, “Wednesday” will also have you unintentionally watching gothic influences in the titular character’s clothing, mannerisms and especially the viral dance.
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